Food & Drink

100 Mahaseth

This über-sustainable nose-to-tail proves just how many tasty ways you can skin a cow.

Feb 23, 2019

I CONSIDERED making this section just two words: goat ribs. Because I will cross town regularly (which is saying a lot in Bangkok) for chef Chalee Kader’s umami-filled, char-grilled, tender, tasty goat ribs. Sourced from a halal butcher in Ratchaburi, they are lollipops of perfection. But giving all the love to the goat ribs wouldn’t be fair to his and co-chef Randy Noprapa’s circus parade of excellent animals that troop into 100 Mahaseth from all over the Kingdom. Their Thai-raised Wagyu comes from Surin, Sakon Nakhon and Korat (get the flank steak). In fact, every item in this meat-eater’s dream, from the plates to the palm sugar, comes with its D.O.P., making this Michelin Bib Gourmand spot the most accountable locavore, least annoying nose-to-tail eatery I know.

The more adventurous will appreciate “drops of bile” and “pig’s heart and aorta;” your Instagram will adore the bone marrow and the cutie Isan sausages in hot dog buns and boxes. But somehow this funky, deconstructed shophouse with a sexy dry-aging case in front of the kitchen manages to feel less trendy than old school barbecue joint-y. Which is probably why the cool kids love it so much.

fb.com/100mahaseth; mains Bt260–2,800, tasting menus from Bt800.

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