Feb 23, 2019
I CONSIDERED making this section just two words: goat ribs. Because I will cross town regularly (which is saying a lot in Bangkok) for chef Chalee Kader’s umami-filled, char-grilled, tender, tasty goat ribs. Sourced from a halal butcher in Ratchaburi, they are lollipops of perfection. But giving all the love to the goat ribs wouldn’t be fair to his and co-chef Randy Noprapa’s circus parade of excellent animals that troop into 100 Mahaseth from all over the Kingdom. Their Thai-raised Wagyu comes from Surin, Sakon Nakhon and Korat (get the flank steak). In fact, every item in this meat-eater’s dream, from the plates to the palm sugar, comes with its D.O.P., making this Michelin Bib Gourmand spot the most accountable locavore, least annoying nose-to-tail eatery I know.
The more adventurous will appreciate “drops of bile” and “pig’s heart and aorta;” your Instagram will adore the bone marrow and the cutie Isan sausages in hot dog buns and boxes. But somehow this funky, deconstructed shophouse with a sexy dry-aging case in front of the kitchen manages to feel less trendy than oldschool barbecue joint-y. Which is probably why the cool kids love it so much. fb.com/100mahaseth; mains Bt260–2,800, tasting menus from Bt800.