Front Room

Feb 23, 2019

For this fresh Thai fare with a Danish accent, little is lost in translation.

Chef Fae Chummongkhon finishes a dish.

In the new Waldorf Astoria Bangkok, past an orderly open kitchen, is an airy atrium whose floor-to-high-ceiling windows face fairy-lit greenery. It is a most apropos place to go on a continent-hopping culinary perambulation with spritely and spirited chef Rungthiwa “Fae” Chummongkhon.

Don’t let the “Nordic-Thai” theme throw you. It merely means she applies Scandinavian cooking methods—smoking, curing, fermenting—to mostly Thai ingredients. The upshot is that, despite the rarefied setting, Fae is super on-trend now. The plating is as bright as her personality, the flavors as clean as a fjord, the evocations as melting-pot as the influences from her mom’s Thai home-cooking to her dozen years’ training in Denmark.

Eggplant sorbet with mulberries and caramel.

On her launch menu, paper-thin slices of sea bass are smoked and jigsawed together like a terrine, with coconut, broccoli, guava, green apple, kaffir lime and rosemary. I swoon. Raised in Chiang Rai is a chicken wing reconstituted as a sausage then reconstructed into a wing; with its black rice puree, it feels like a homey Sunday roast. This being Scandi-fusion, salmon is required, and the Atlantic Laks, with carrot, bitter orange and rice mayo, is a springtime sojourn in Europe, without the flight. 

waldorfastoria3.hilton.com; mains Bt650 –1,200, set menus from 2,700.


Food & Drink

8 Bangkok Restaurants Redefining a Genre

We’re just going to come right out and say it: Bangkok’s dining scene has never been more delicious or compelling than it is right now.

Food & Drink

Samrub for Thai

The maestro who’d been running the line at Nahm for years, chef Prin Polsuk, has been teasing our palates with pop-ups of his deeply researched, forgotten Thai-cookbook recipes. Now he’s settled into his own space, a tiny chef’s-table, open-kitchen restaurant hidden within like-minded locavore 100 Mahaseth.

Hotels & Resorts

This Bangkok Hotel Wants You to Move in for a Year for US$33,000

Who wants to be a millionaire? Hyatt Regency’s new Million Baht Club even includes birthday-party planning.

Hotels & Resorts

The Best Hotels To Book For An Extended Stay

No need to live out of a suitcase: extended stays these days mean city-center locations, spacious modern abodes and top-notch 24-hour dining.