Front Room

Feb 23, 2019

For this fresh Thai fare with a Danish accent, little is lost in translation.

Chef Fae Chummongkhon finishes a dish.

In the new Waldorf Astoria Bangkok, past an orderly open kitchen, is an airy atrium whose floor-to-high-ceiling windows face fairy-lit greenery. It is a most apropos place to go on a continent-hopping culinary perambulation with spritely and spirited chef Rungthiwa “Fae” Chummongkhon.

Don’t let the “Nordic-Thai” theme throw you. It merely means she applies Scandinavian cooking methods—smoking, curing, fermenting—to mostly Thai ingredients. The upshot is that, despite the rarefied setting, Fae is super on-trend now. The plating is as bright as her personality, the flavors as clean as a fjord, the evocations as melting-pot as the influences from her mom’s Thai home-cooking to her dozen years’ training in Denmark.

Eggplant sorbet with mulberries and caramel.

On her launch menu, paper-thin slices of sea bass are smoked and jigsawed together like a terrine, with coconut, broccoli, guava, green apple, kaffir lime and rosemary. I swoon. Raised in Chiang Rai is a chicken wing reconstituted as a sausage then reconstructed into a wing; with its black rice puree, it feels like a homey Sunday roast. This being Scandi-fusion, salmon is required, and the Atlantic Laks, with carrot, bitter orange and rice mayo, is a springtime sojourn in Europe, without the flight. 

waldorfastoria3.hilton.com; mains Bt650 –1,200, set menus from 2,700.


Food & Drink

Bangkok’s Multi-Stellar Michelin Masters

The long waiting lists at these restaurants are worth the wait.

Food & Drink

Lunch with a View at Mahanakorn Bangkok SkyBar

Bangkok’s newest sky-high venue has just opened for lunch on the 76th floor of the Kingpower MahaNakhon building.

Hotels & Resorts

You’ll Want To Book These Places For Your Next Business Trip

All work and no play is no way to do business travel. Mix up your next corporate trip with rooftop cocktails, sightseeing or soaking up the sun.

Hotels & Resorts

Mandarin Oriental Hotel Bangkok

For more than 130 years distinguished travelers have followed the legendary Chao Phraya River, through the heart of Bangkok, to the doors of one of the world’s most luxurious hotels, Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok.