This Macau restaurant has no menu, and that’s exactly why you should go

Jul 2, 2019

When Macau’s shiny new Zaha Hadid–designed Morpheus hotel opened last year to great fanfare, Yi restaurant (cityofdreamsmacau.com; mains from MOP168) sidled into the property’s 21st- floor, glass-walled skybridge, quietly but confidently positioning itself as one of the most innovative Chinese fine-diners in the city. Led by acclaimed chef de cuisine Angelo Wong (he also opened Howard’s Gourmet in Beijing), the restaurant has a “non-menu” omakase-style concept, with daily-changing tasting menus that combine regional Chinese cooking techniques and super-fresh, whatever-is-in-season produce (the restaurant doesn’t have a freezer, it’s ingredients are that green). Daily plates have included succulent roast pigeon smoked with lemongrass, or a fried tilefish on a bed of crab “coral” made recently for a six-hands dinner with the head chef of Hong Kong’s Tate Dining Room, Vicky Lau. Based on the classic Chinese philosophy of Yi (a belief that nourishment leads to wellness and good fortune), the thoughtful menu by Wong and executive chef Wilson Fam is one to remember… just don’t expect it to be regular. — Eloise Basuki

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